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Ginrin Chagoi Koi For Sale

Ginrin Chagoi Koi, Chagoi (Chah’-goy), Chagoi KoiIf you want a fish with personality, look no further than the basic Chagoi. You’ll discover this pet is probably more intelligent than other koi in your pond too. It is almost universally agreed to be the friendliest of the koi classifications because it is the most aggressive at feeding time and almost always the first 鱼 to become hand-tame. For this reason, the Chagoi is sometimes purchased solely for the purposes of taming the rest of a group, and not for its color. Once one fish starts eating from your hand, it’s not hard to bring the rest about.

The Chagoi is basically a brown koi, however a brown koi is not necessarily a Chagoi. Within that distinction, there are levels of quality and the discovery of valuable traits. If the basic Chagoi is a brown koi, what about the different shades of brown? Let’s discuss these and the other traits that make a “good” Chagoi.

Physical characteristics: first, the fish should be big. Now, this doesn’t apply to the young fish, but you should be able to tell that the fish has been fat and robust all its life. As a young fish it should be an aggressive eater and it should be larger than all the other fish of the same age. As an adult, a Chagoi is prized most highly if it fulfills a destiny of great size – as much as 40 inches or more. That’s a big koi by any standard.

The fish should be blocky in its body shape. The base of the tail (knuckle) should be thick and fat. The head and shoulders should be broad, and no part of the fish should be slender or streamlined. The pectorals should be large and paddle shaped, and there should be no splits in the fins or the dorsal fin. And the eyes of a Chagoi should be active and bright, with the corneas being crystal clear.

Let’s also consider the color and pattern. There are two patterns of Chagoi – “with fukurin” and “without fukurin.” Fukurin (foo’-kure-in) is when each scale is highlighted with a black edging, giving the fish a “fishnet” pattern over the brown coloration. This may be missing in scaleless Chagois and in some of the Chagoi colors. Personal preference will dictate which style you desire.

With or without fukurin, the more “lined up” the scales are, the better the fish. For example, let’s say you have two Chagoi of exactly the same color and size. Both are chunky through the body and have large paddle-like pectoral fins. To determine the difference between the two, you would look at the alignment of the scales. If the rows were nice and straight like a corncob, then the fish with the straightest, most uniform rows would be awarded the point for scale pattern.

锦鲤护理指南——关于锦鲤的六件事

• 经验等级：中级
• 尺寸：锦鲤长到 36 英寸（91 厘米）长
• 寿命：它们可以活超过 50 年，并在各种水温下茁壮成长
• 气质：他们通常很平静，但可能会挑选速度较慢的鱼
• 来源：它们是一种原产于日本的鲤鱼
• 你知道吗：锦鲤可以学会识别并从他们的宠物父母那里取食

如何设置我的锦鲤水族箱？

• 锦鲤长得很快，变得非常大。将成熟的锦鲤放在至少 3 英尺深的室外池塘中，每条鱼至少 50 加仑的水。
• 年轻的锦鲤可以在至少 29 加仑的水族箱中饲养在室内。
• 将水族箱放在远离阳光直射和气流的安静区域。
• 用罩子盖住水族箱，以减少蒸发和飞溅，并防止鱼跳出。
• 要将新锦鲤转移到水族箱，请将它们漂浮在袋子内的水中约 10 分钟，以便它们适应新的水温。
• 如果您要将锦鲤引入水族馆或池塘中的现有鱼群，请将新鱼在单独的水体中隔离 2 至 4 周，以确保它们健康。
• 搬家那天，用网把锦鲤转移，这样旧水就不会和新水混在一起。
• 无论他们住在室内还是室外，一次添加不超过 3 条新锦鲤。

热与光

室外锦鲤很耐寒，只要池塘足够深不会完全冻结，冬天就会在冰下冬眠。 （它们无法在坚硬的冰中生存。）

你的锦鲤池塘应该部分遮荫。

室内锦鲤喜欢 65 到 75 华氏度的水。

在室内水族馆内安装一盏灯，每天照亮 8 到 12 小时。

水温

锦鲤非常耐高温——它们甚至可以在冬天在冰下冬眠。只要确保你的池塘至少有三英尺深——否则，它可能会结冰，而锦鲤也不会那么坚硬。当它们生活在室内时，锦鲤更喜欢凉爽的水——温度在 65 到 75 华氏度（18 到 24 摄氏度）之间。

如何让我的锦鲤保持健康？

如果您的户外锦鲤在冬天似乎不吃东西，请不要担心；他们在低于 40 华氏度的温度下停止进食是正常的。如果您发现以下任何症状，请务必联系兽医：

• 不寻常的游泳模式
• 消瘦或食欲下降
• 腹部肿胀
• 皮肤或鳍发炎或变色
• 鳍夹在身体两侧
• 在岩石上刮身体（闪烁）

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